The Ball has now returned back to England, but we’re not done with it quite yet - this site will continue to develop even though there’s no more Cup. As well as the continuing saga on video, there will be flashbacks to times we didn’t manage to write about, more on the real story of how football left home, and some extra eyecandy for you all. With a bit of luck, we’ll keep this site growing and changing until The Ball 2006 leaves for Germany in just under four years time.

World Cup 2002 RIP.

World Cup 2006 here we come: a new blog and another plan for a trip.

Roll on 2006!

The Videos

I’ve added a video page to the site where you can find all the videos that are currently online and interspersed among the stories. Now you can browse the story more conveniently from a single page.

A fast connection (ie, faster than a modem) is recommended if you don’t want to have to go and make a cup of tea each time you click a link. You’ll also need a recent version of Quicktime to view the videos, although a direct link to the file is provided if you want to watch it through another viewer.

Some of the videos were edited during the trip by Monika at Alles ist Moglich! in Berlin, who has been a star for putting up with our dodgy logging and for wading through the endless rushes. Thanks, Monika…

And so, at last, we blow the the final whistle, only to find that it may be the start of something new…

faster | slower

Homeward bound…

Well, we eventually touched down in Paris, where we were met by a driver from Kirker Travel, who kindly donated Eurostar tickets for the two of us to get back to Ashford (where we’re to be picked up by Ben and hopefully driven straight to the nearest pub for a pint of proper ale). Rather sweetly, the driver was waiting with the following sign as we walked out of the arrivals gate…

Wake / Wach

I was trying to think up tabloid headlines like ‘Kahn you believe it?’, ‘Ronaldo the Kahnivore’ to title this entry, but decided to keep it simple instead. Indeed, I’m only going to burden the world with another two points of game analysis. But before getting on to that, I have to say:

Congratulations to Brazil… commiserations to Germany… what a game that was…

So then, my two points… the first concerns the moment the Cup was lost; the second the moment it was won. I guess by now everyone knows when they were - the two Brazilian goals.

I had a feeling that this first meeting between Brazil and Germany might be defined by the Ronaldo/Kahn duel. It had been Kahn’s Cup until the final, in the sense that Manchester United’s European Cup victory had been Schmeichel’s Cup - the crowning moment of an illustrious career. For Ronaldo, on the other hand, there were the ghosts of France 1998 to lay to rest.

I would have felt gutted to see Germany lose 1-0 yesterday… when Kahn spilled Rivaldo’s weak shot at Ronaldo’s feet, he didn’t just give him the ball - but also the Cup. This was defining moment number one for me - not the goal itself, but Kahn’s fumble. I would have been upset to see Germany lose that way because I believe something as momentous as the World Cup should not be lost so much as won. And winning a game like that takes a positive statement of some kind…

Which is exactly what the second Brazilian goal was. A spectacularly beautiful goal, no less, which finished a move that contained everything I love about Brazilian football - blistering pace, guile and consummate skill. With that goal, I thought Ronaldo made victory legitimate.

In that second defining moment, Brazil won the World Cup.

On a slightly different tack, the Bhutanese also had cause to celebrate yesterday - after the alternative World Cup Final which was played hours before Brazil v Germany kicked off in Japan.

This was no celebration of footballing prowess, but a final for the two worst teams in the world, and was contested by teams from Bhutan and Monserrat - ranked 202nd and 203rd in the World respectively. For a full report check out this address:

Montserrat ‘world’s worst’ (BBC Sport)

Getting to Japan was the only the start of the journey for me, but the culmination of a long journey for Phil and Chris, who hopefully will go on to bigger and better things after eventually getting the media coverage they deserved.

Have to say that I had a whale of a time travelling through China, and it was worth everything to have experienced playing football with Buddhist monks in their natural habit(at).

Only 24 hours from…?

See you all in Germany 2006.

Again we have the pleasure to share a stadium with the Brazilian fans, but this time they won leaving only one game between themselves and a possible FIVE World Cup championships. ‘PENTA Campion’ rings off their lips with understandable confidence, though of course the mighty Kahn will stand between the sticks for Germany.

‘Penta Campion’ rings out here in this mpeg.


Brazil, in the Semi-Final of the World Cup, play…

…Turkey in Saitama Stadium, Japan.

The bagpipes were here… (see them played with a brazilian drummer here in this mpeg).

…with branded Japanese

…flagged up Brazilians…

…ladies…

‘n’ chris and I.

The atmosphere was thick with football, Japanese fans and the ever present FIFA branding. This ‘rich man’s World Cup’ game had cost us, face value, $500 each.

Brazil crowd spells Ronaldo

Ronaldo does nothing for the first half and then scores a beauty that turned out to be the winner, then it was down the hairdressers for a quiet moan about the tension he feels from the hours he spends on computer games? Yes.

Turkish and Brazilian reconciliation

Not a report on the game - mainly because it hasn’t happened yet. But when it does, we’re going to be pitchside - just scored two category one tickets…

Must dash - got a game to see!

Unlucky Korea went out to the Cup last night… rather overpowered by a German team playing a similar style of football - a disciplined team game with little flair and much hard work. Korea had far fewer chances than they did against any of the latin teams that they put out of the competition, and in the end, succumbed to the sustained German pressure.


Our restaurant both shows the game and provides the soundtrack

We watched the game in the Korean enclave of Tokyo, surrounded by both Japanese and Koreans cheering for the Reds. I too cheered for the locals, despite being half German - the other half of me is Polish, and the Koreans put them out of contention in the first game… but most of all I supported Korea because I really wanted to see Tokyo flooded with Korean supporters at the weekend.

No doubt in Phil’s mind, however…

…Michael shows his colours…

…while the Japanese offered mixed support

But it was Germany’s night, with Michael Ballack scoring the winning goal - knowing he wouldn’t be playing in the Final. I don’t care what nationality you are, that’s gotta hurt.

Black belt origami in honour of Korea’s spirit

The Koreans were as gracious in defeat as they were exuberant in victory, and I left the restaurant where we watched the game marvelling at the generosity and enthusiasm that they have shown throughout the competition. And they still get to play again in Korea for third/fourth place… whatever happens in the game, Korea should go wild again.

I say, jolly good show, what?

faster | slower

Well I woke up this morning,
To catch a bullet to the game…

Shooting ourselves in the foot(ball)

But the waking wasn’t worth it,
Coz the football match was lame…


Bullet train logo

Sixty quid each invested in two return tickets to Shizuoka - no hope of getting in to the game, but high hopes of hooking up with other fans and watching the game on a big screen nearby, which is the next best thing to being inside the stadium…

Wrong platform

We anticipated the bullet train whisking us to Shizuoka at lightning speed, but first had to find the right one - a more tricky task than I thought… no-one spoke English, but the usual mixture of gesture and smiles prevailed in the end.

The game aleady in progress

Arrival at interchange to the local train found us talking to other England fans, some of whom had tickets, others, like us, here for the atmosphere. The bullet train had been slower than we first thought, and a quick look at the station clock revealed that the game was to start in five minutes. Some kindly Japanese folk lent us their portable TVs so that we didn’t miss a moment.

As close as we got to the stadium

Yes, indeed. Unbelievable as it was to us, the stadium was utterly unapproachable, and there seemed to be no sign of a big screen for the crowds of Brazilians, English and Japanese in England or Brazil disguise. A hundred Beckhams with nowhere to go… except round and round the windswept merchandising plaza. Buy a ticket, buy the shirt, buy the flag and commemorative keyring… and then piss off out of here.

As good as it got…

…in the way of big screen action.

Fortunately for us, a Japanese lad had brought along his portable DVD player, and we crowded round the tiny, flickering screen in the shadow of the train station - until even this small crumb of interaction with the nearby events was also taken from us - the police deeming our little gathering to be a nuisance, and moving DVD lad along.

The bitter end

Luckily, a wizened old Japanese woman with a portable TV was nearby, taking no orders from the megaphone-wielding police. She stood stubbornly behind their barriers, watching the final moments of the game… turning the screen towards me so I could see the spectacle come to a close in the stadium. Final whistle, and back to Tokyo as fast as is possible… 50,000 fans wanting to get out of there, and not even an extra train laid on.

Back in town, I decided to go watch the Germany v. USA game in an English pub. Nowhere else seemed to be showing the game, and I’m instantly fleeced for six quid a pint. Miserably, I find a corner of the bar to stand and forget myself in the game in progress. As the second half begins, Phil walks in, just arrived from Shizuoka.

Phil plays the blues

After the game finished, Phil and his harmonica joined the band on stage to play the blues… an ironic, but perfectly matched accompaniment to a bluer-than-blue day.

Poor England dead and gone,
Left us here to sing this song,
Pretty little boys with their red shirts on,
Poor England dead and gone.
They’ve got the running blues,
Running away,
Back to UK…

(with apologies to Mr. Morrison)

Surely not!!

We shall see.

Come on you EEEEEENGERLAND!

So then, it’s goodbye to Korea… the Ball is moving on today, and there’s just enough time to write a fond farewell to a country we have really enjoyed visiting. I will miss Korea very much - the people have been generous, hospitable, and I’ve loved their enthusiasm for all things football-related.

I’ll be cheering for you on Saturday…

Plan our travels, that’s what. Phil and I have finally got our tickets home - we head back to Europe on the 4th of July… to Paris. All the flights to the UK are booked out until the 9th July, and we both decided it would be better to get out of Japan early. Paris was our only option.

The Ball leaves for Tokyo tomorrow evening - we still live in the vain hope of finding a couple of tickets for the England v. Brazil game. Yeah, I know, fat chance… but whatever happens, it’ll be great just to be close to the action…

“We learnt that it’s not the winning that counts. Wherever you go, playing football can be used to improve diplomatic relations and promote peace.”
- an ex North Korean footballer talking about his team at the World Cup in England in 1966

But the winning sure does feel good…

Koreans have taken to the streets in their thousands to celebrate their victory over Italy… and the delight that is so plainly written across their faces is equally delightful to behold. I’ve just got back from dancing down an eight lane highway in the middle of town with the crowds… beers and soju being thrust into my hands whenever they weren’t high-fiving passers-by…


Unbelievable!

Phil told me, when he got back from his wander around the city, that he’d met an American out celebrating who turned to him and said… that he had never realised that football could be like this. I know exactly what he means, as I had an almost identical feeling at France ‘98; my first experience of football fans that I didn’t feel threatened by - but more than that, though - my first experience of fans who celebrated a beautiful game in a beautiful way.

Unbelievable!

Today was Korea’s day, and they made the most of it. Their team snatched victory from the jaws of defeat, with pin-up lad who missed the early penalty scoring the golden goal in extra time to send the game reviewers a narrative hook from heaven. He deserves all the product endorsements that he can get.

Unbelievable!

Te Hamin Gwo!

click here or on the image above to download the MPEG movie clip

In fairness to the Italians, though, I thought they were on the wrong end of a lot of poor refereeing decisions, and unlucky to lose the game. On the other hand, some of the players have to learn to stay on their feet or else they’ll continue to lose the ref’s sympathy time and time again. They are all great players, but do themselves a great injustice with their melodrama.

Oh pilsen Korea!

click here to download the MPEG movie clip

Unbelievable!

I have only one thing left to say:

IT’S UNBELIEVABLE!

But today I’m going to say it over and over again… just so I don’t forget…

Unbelievable!

Dancing for joy

click here to download the MPEG movie clip

Unbelievable!

Unbelievable!

The atmosphere in Seoul is electrifying again tonight, with seemingly the entire population working themselves into a frenzy in anticipation of tonight’s big match - everyone is uniformly dressed in “Be the Reds” t-shirts (despite the team playing in pink) and starting on the soju early. We were going to go to City Hall to see the game, but then realised that we’d only be able to see the crowds - who have been gathering there since lunchtime…

Every vantage point will by now be taken, so unless we were lucky enough to find a convenient rooftop like last time, we’d actually see nothing of the match. So we’re going to hang out and watch the game on the big screen here at the guesthouse instead, and head out later… depending on the result, of course.

The guesthouse watches itself on TV

Much merriment earlier today as the guesthouse was featured in the pre-match coverage on MBC. Han, the ever-helpful and smiling manager, had the lead role in the report, which showed the scenes of jubiliation here during the game against Portugal. Top moments included Rubens, a most humorous Brazilian supporter (see you in Shizuoka, mate!) dancing across the screen when the Koreans scored, and Phil singing “pilsen Korea” with Han at the final whistle.

Be the Fuschia Pinks!

After arriving in Japan tired, ticketless and homeless, I was immediately buoyed by learning that the French had been beaten by Senegal. From that moment on started an eighteen day rollercoaster ride of Japanese culture and a feast of football that is the World Cup.

Fast forwarding two weeks from my arrival, the England bug has found it’s way into my system after managing to see two out of the three England games - but would I get to Saturday night’s match against Denmark?

After travelling to Niigata on a wing and a prayer (aided by the bullet train), I set off to watch the Germany v Paraguay game. After some stereotypically drab play I was grateful for half time, but I was becoming increasing restless with my lack of ticket.

I hit the streets armed with my trusty “Any spare tickets?” sign, which had been so successful at the Nigeria game.

After encountering some outrageous tout prices I chanced upon a man who asked me if I was prepared to buy his mate’s Category One ticket for face value. After spending silly money on the Sweden and Nigeria games the Gods had finally smiled on me. I couldn’t get the money out of my wallet fast enough.

On a high parallel with anything Pink Floyd could have reached in their heyday, I set off to the stadium.

What followed was one big party - from the moment I entered the stadium and long into the night aterwards. After Rio scored the first goal, ‘The Engerlund’ were never seriously threatened, every goal greeted with yours truly running up and down the aisles with England flag raised aloft. We reached half time and after a quick bar stop the party could resume.

With the game already sewn-up in the second half, the chants of “Let’s all have a disco, Let’s all have a disco” became harder to ignore, thus we conga-d up and down the aisles, and joined by both English and Japanese we dodged the stewards to party away the rest of the match.

The partying continued until the early hours, with both the Danes and the English in arms (to the chants of “We love your bacon, we do”!), in downtown Niigata.

Very tired but still elated I made my way to the station to catch the 7 ‘o’ clock train back to Tokyo.

This was one of the best nights of my life - the atmosphere and the result both perfect - I’m just gutted to now be in Australia, and missing the opportunity to watch England v Brazil on Friday. Still the wallet and the bank balance will be very happy about that.

All for now - Good Luck to Everyone (except maybe the Brazilians and the Germans)

Wonder how much a plane ticket to Japan costs?